Family trip · 8 days

Paris

11 – 18 August 2026
Base 12e, Place d'Aligre
Then Deauville

Locked in

Everything else can move around these.

WED 10:30
Paris By Mouth food tourLeft Bank · until 1:30pm
THU 10:00
Atelier des Lumières38 rue Saint-Maur, 11e
THU 14:00
Pandore & Associés102 blvd Voltaire, 11e
THU 18:30
Musée d'Orsay — nocturne1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 7e
FRI 09:30
Sainte-ChapelleÎle de la Cité · arrive 9:15
FRI 14:30
L'Aventure Fantastique2 Square des Cardeurs, 20e
MON 19:30
Le Savarin — private room4 rue de Navarin, 9e · big group
TUE 12:30
Le Moulin FouretNear Bernay · on the A13 by 10:30
Mardi

11 August

Arrival — nothing booked, on purpose
Afternoon
Settle in — Place d'Aligre
A market square in the 12e, lined with cafés and small shops — our street.
Drop bags and walk your own street. Jet lag wins on day one; this day is deliberately empty.
16:00
Marché d'Aligre — afternoon session
Open-air produce and flea market plus a covered food hall, right downstairs.
The market reopens 4–7:30pm, Tues–Sun. Provisions and a first proper look at the neighbourhood.
Early eve
Coulée Verte stroll
A disused railway viaduct turned elevated garden walk — Paris's version of the High Line.
Elevated park starting at Bastille, 5 min away. Free, flat, no plan required.
Dinner
Oobatzbook 28 Jul
Casual sourdough pizza place.
4bis av. Jean Aicard, 11e. Sourdough pizza — Mon–Fri only, so Tuesday is one of the few nights it works. ~20 min walk or Metro 9 to Voltaire.
Mercredi

12 August

Left Bank — food tour, then nothing much
10:30
Paris By Mouth food tourbooked
Guided walking food tour — cheese, bread, charcuterie, pastry and wine, with tastings at each stop.
Three hours, until 1:30. You'll finish genuinely full, so the afternoon is deliberately empty.
Afternoon
Rue du Bac — unstructured
A Left Bank shopping street. Deyrolle at no.46 is a Victorian taxidermy and natural-history shop; Chapon at no.69 is a chocolatier famous for its mousse.
Deyrolle Mon–Sat, Chapon daily. No timings. d'Orsay has moved to Thursday evening, so today has no fixed points at all after 1:30.
Late aft
Jardin Catherine Labouré
A small walled former convent garden, mostly locals and prams.
Two minutes from Bon Marché, open till 9:30pm. Sit down and do nothing.
Optional
Palais Royal galleriesoptional
A former royal palace whose arcades hold galleries, jewellers and vintage design, around a formal garden. The striped Buren columns are in the courtyard.
10 min across the Pont Royal from rue du Bac — the only thing on the Right Bank worth crossing for today. Free, open daily 8am–10:30pm.
Optional
Musée Rodin gardenoptional
Sculpture garden at the Rodin museum — The Thinker and the Gates of Hell are both outdoors.
Garden-only €3, free for the boys, Tues–Sun. The low-effort art option now that d'Orsay is Thursday.
Dinner
Septime La Cavewalk-in
A tiny standing-room natural wine bar with snacks rather than a full menu.
3 rue Basfroi. Open daily 4–11pm. After a food tour you won't want a sit-down meal.
Jeudi

13 August

Atelier · Pandore · Folderol · Orsay by night
10:00
Atelier des Lumièresbooked
Immersive digital art — famous paintings projected floor-to-ceiling across an old iron foundry, with music.
38 rue Saint-Maur. Allow about an hour. 10 min walk from Pandore.
Lunch
Le Parizot
A one-man sandwich shop — ham-and-butter baguettes, made to order.
9 rue de Crussol. Open till 5pm. Go before the good ham runs out.
14:00
Pandore & Associésbooked
Escape room — you're locked in a themed set and solve puzzles to get out. Fairytale theme, English available.
Allow 1.5–2 hrs including the debrief.
16:00
Folderolwalk-in
An ice cream shop that doubles as a natural wine bar — both, at the same time.
10 rue du Grand Prieuré. No reservations, opens 4pm. Olive oil and black sugar are the flavours. No rush — you have until about 5:45.
17:45
Set off for d'Orsay
~30 min door to door, so 6:30 leaves real buffer. Walk 6 min to République, Metro 8 west to Concorde (6 stops), then either line 12 one stop to Solférino, or walk across the Pont de la Concorde — about 12 min with the river in front of you. Line 8 to Invalides also works if you'd rather walk the quai.
18:30
Musée d'Orsay — the nocturnebooked
A former Beaux-Arts railway station built for the 1900 World's Fair, now home to the great Impressionist collection — Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Manet — plus the vast original station clock.
1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 7e. Plan for one hour: skip the ground floor and take the escalator straight to Level 5 — that's the Impressionist galleries and the great clock with the café behind it. An hour covers that floor properly. Thursday is the only late night and galleries close at 9:15, so there's no pressure if you stay longer.
~20:00
Dinner — Le Petit Cler
An all-day neighbourhood brasserie on a pedestrian market street.
29 rue Cler, 7e — 15 min walk from the museum, open daily till midnight. Freed up now that Monday's lunch has moved to the 15e. Or head home and eat late.
Vendredi

14 August

Sainte-Chapelle, then a day left open
09:15
Arrive Sainte-Chapelle9:30 entry
A 13th-century royal chapel — the upper floor is essentially walls of stained glass, 15 windows telling the whole Bible.
Allow time for the security queue. Upper chapel glass is best in morning light. 45–60 min. Metro 4 to Cité. Free for the boys.
Late morn
Open — no plan
The Seine quais and Île Saint-Louis, the smaller island behind Notre-Dame, are both right there.
You're on the Île de la Cité with hours to spare. Drift along the Seine, cross to Île Saint-Louis, or head home and rest. Deliberately unscheduled.
Lunch
Wherever you land
If you want an anchor: the Arab World Institute has a free rooftop terrace with the best Notre-Dame view in the city.
Nothing booked. If you want an anchor, the IMA rooftop (5e, free, floor 9) is a 15 min walk and has the best Notre-Dame view in Paris.
13:30
Head to L'Aventure Fantastique
2 Square des Cardeurs, 20e. Allow 30 min — Metro 9 toward Maraîchers, or taxi.
14:30
L'Aventure Fantastiquebooked
Live-action medieval adventure — costumed actors, foam swords and 600m² of built dungeon sets. Closer to role-play than a puzzle room.
Medieval RPG — foam swords, costumed actors, 600m² of dungeons. Allow 1.5–2 hrs.
Late aft
Open
Nothing planned. La Villette is close to the 20e if you want the free open-air cinema — Stand By Me, 9pm.
Dinner
Mischiefbook 29 Jul
A small counter-seating restaurant — inventive modern French, you watch the kitchen work.
25 rue des Gravilliers. Tues–Sat only, so Friday is its slot — Mischief can't move to Sunday. Marais, but a short taxi rather than a wander.
Samedi

15 August

Vincennes by day · Ground Control by night
Morning
Bois de Vincennes — Lac Daumesnil
The big park on the eastern edge of Paris. Rowboats for hire on the lake, plus bike rental.
From 10am. Easy, unhurried, close to home.
Early aft
Parc Floral — Classique au Vert
A botanical garden inside the same park, with free classical concerts on summer weekends.
€2.80 park entry. Or skip it and stay by the lake.
Late aft
Home to regroup
Nothing booked all day. Assumption Day is a public holiday, so the city is quieter than a normal Saturday.
~18:00
Ground Controlwalk-in
A vast converted rail depot with a dozen independent food stalls and natural wine bars. Old train carriages as kids' play areas, plus a games alley.
81 rue du Charolais, 12e — 15 min walk from the apartment. Sat noon–1am, no reservation. Everyone orders separately, kids roam, you leave whenever — which is the whole point with 4 adults and 4 kids of different ages. Arrive by 6 for a table; it fills up later on Saturdays. Worth confirming they're open on the 15th, as it's a public holiday.
Sit-down
YARD, Kubri or Double Dragonbook ahead
Proper sit-down alternatives. YARD: relaxed natural wine restaurant. Kubri: Lebanese-Parisian mezze, built for sharing. Double Dragon: lively Filipino-French plates.
YARD does its one all-day service on Saturday (1pm–midnight), so an early booking for 8 is realistic. Kubri and Double Dragon are both Tues–Sat. Call rather than book online for a party of 8, and confirm they're serving on the 15th.
Ruled out
Vaux-le-Vicomte candlelit evening
Beautiful, but the fireworks are at 11pm and the estate closes at midnight — an hour back on the Transilien afterwards is too much with the younger kids in the group.
Dimanche

16 August

Le Marais — the wander day
Morning
Marché d'Aligre
Our local market — Sunday is its best morning.
Sunday is the market's best morning. Take your time, then Metro 8 from Ledru-Rollin to Saint-Paul — or walk it in 25 min.
Late morn
Rue de Bretagne & rue Charlot
The north Marais shopping streets — design, homeware and small independent labels. Café Charlot at no.38 is a classic corner café.
The heart of the north Marais: indie home goods, galleries, small boutiques. Café Charlot at 38 rue de Bretagne is the natural coffee stop.
Midday
Rue Vieille du Temple & Blancs Manteaux
The menswear stretch. Balibaris does relaxed French tailoring; Octobre Edition does minimal, well-made basics.
Balibaris at 117 Vieille du Temple (open 7 days). Octobre Edition at 28 rue des Blancs Manteaux (Tues–Sun). This is the menswear stretch.
Lunch
Le Loir dans la Théièrewalk-in
An Alice in Wonderland–themed tearoom, mismatched furniture, known for enormous meringue pies.
3 rue des Rosiers. Daily 9am–7:30pm, no reservations. Famous lemon meringue.
Afternoon
One museum — your pick
Arts et Métiers: science and invention, with a Foucault pendulum and early aircraft. Chasse et Nature: hunting and nature, taxidermy staged in period rooms. Carnavalet: the history of Paris, in two old mansions.
Arts et Métiers (Foucault pendulum), Chasse et Nature (taxidermy), or Carnavalet (free). All open Sunday, all free for the boys, all in the Marais. Pick one, not three.
Late aft
Keep drifting
Place des Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris, arcaded on all four sides.
Place des Vosges arcades, or back through rue des Francs-Bourgeois. Sunday is the one day Paris shopping happens here rather than everywhere else.
Dinner
YARD
A relaxed natural wine restaurant with a proper kitchen, not just small plates.
6 rue de Mont-Louis. Sun 1–10pm. Natural wine with a proper kitchen. Closed Tue & Wed, so Sunday is the right night for it.
Lundi

17 August

Last full day — the 15e, on line 8
Morning
Viaduc des Arts
Craft workshops built into the arches beneath the old railway viaduct — furniture makers, restorers, instrument builders.
Av. Daumesnil, daily 10am–7pm, 10 min walk. Nearly every museum in Paris is shut on Mondays, so today is for wandering.
~12:00
Metro 8 to Commerce
The whole day runs on one line: Ledru-Rollin → Commerce (15e) → back to Faidherbe-Chaligny for the wine. No changes.
12:30
Le Café du Commerce
A genuine 15e institution — three floors around an open atrium with a retractable roof. 4.5 stars across 8,000+ reviews.
51 rue du Commerce, right by the metro. Open every day 11:30am–11pm. Lunch around €20 for something like steak tartare. Better than eating in the 7e when the point is the old neighbourhood.
Afternoon
Rue de la Croix Nivert & rue du Commerce
Jeremy's old street, and the 15e's high street running off it — the nostalgia walk.
Note: the good bakery on Croix Nivert (Le Moulin, no.39) is closed Mondays, as is Carré d'Or at no.141. La Corbeille à Pains at no.197 is open 7am–9pm if you want one.
~15:30
Square Saint-Lambert
The local park — playground, a working carousel, and a partial Eiffel Tower view from the upper end.
Rue Jean Formigé, open Mon 8am–9:30pm. Somewhere for the boys while you and Jennie wander.
By 18:00
Crus et Découvertes
A natural wine shop — our stock-up for the Normandy house.
7 rue Paul Bert, 11e — Faidherbe-Chaligny on line 8. Open Mon, closed 2–4pm, shuts at 8pm. Done by 6 so you're not rushing.
19:30
Le Savarin — private roombooked
A creative French bistro in South Pigalle, known for fish and seafood. The main room seats only about 20, so the private room is the right call for a big table.
4 rue de Navarin, 9e. Monday dinner is a single 7:30–9:30pm service, so arrive on time.
Mardi

18 August

Departure — lunch, cheese, and the big shop
08:45
Final Early Bird coffee
Specialty coffee roaster inside the covered market hall.
The Marché Beauvau, your front door. Open Tuesdays.
09:00
Maison Vérotoptional
A charcutier — pâté en croûte, terrines and cured meats. Theirs has won world championships.
49 rue Saint-Antoine, opens 9am, ~10 min walk. For the Normandy house. Drop it if the morning feels tight.
09:30
Pick up rental car — Hertzbooked
Underground car park at Gare de Lyon.
190 rue de Bercy, Level -1. 15 min walk. Bring the booking reference and a credit card in the driver's name.
By 10:30
On the A13
The hard deadline. 1h45 to Bernay, so leaving by 10:30 puts you there around 12:15 with slack.
12:30
Le Moulin Fouretbooked
A 16th-century watermill turned Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant — waterside terrace shaded by birch trees, original mill cogwheels intact.
2 rte du Moulin Fouret, near Bernay. Three-course menus ~€36 and ~€46. Budget 90 min. +33 2 32 43 19 95
~14:00
Voie verte along the Charentonne
A greenway path following the river through the mill's wooded park.
A short leg-stretch before you drive on — 20 min is plenty now there are stops ahead.
~14:40
Pont-l'Évêque — Fromagerie La Dégusterie
The cheese town, and it sits directly on the road from Bernay to Deauville.
26 rue Saint-Michel. 4.6 across 529 reviews, open every day 9–7. They run cheese-and-cider tastings — several people report emails going unanswered, so phone ahead if you want one: +33 2 31 65 54 10. La Fromagerie d'Annabelle on rue Hamelin is the backup, Tues afternoons from 3:30.
~15:20
Beaumont-en-Auge
A hilltop village with a panorama over the Touques valley and a few artists' shops.
Viewpoint at Place de Verdun. Half an hour is enough, and it's 15 min from Deauville from here.
~16:00
Carrefour Touques — the big shop
Hypermarket right where you come into Deauville — butchery, fish counter, bakery, serious wine section.
Chem. du Roy, Touques. Mon–Sat 8:30–20:00. Better reviewed than the Leclerc next door and easier parking. Do the bulk run here on arrival day and save the Trouville fish market for a morning later in the week. For the week: both hypermarkets shut at 1pm Sundays, and Leclerc closes entirely.
17:00
Check-in at the Abbaye
Ten minutes from Touques. The long driving was over hours ago.

Reference

Tap to open.

Closed in August
Mokonuts
Closed all August. Sister restaurants Double Dragon and Le Servan are open.
Gibon
Closed during our week.
Jip
Closed during our week.
L'Ébauchoir
Closed all August.
Cypsèle
Likely closed — check cypsele.fr if their August book opens.
Verjus
Closed Saturdays — ruled out for the 15th.
Day closures worth knowing
Ground Control closed Mon & Tue. YARD closed Tue & Wed. Folderol closed Tue & Wed. Klover closed Wed & Thu. Almost every museum closed Monday. In Normandy: Amicha closed Mon, Chez Madeleine closed Wed.
Still to book
Oobatz — Tue 11, arrival dinner
Books two weeks ahead.
Window opens Tue 28 July
Mischief — Fri 14 dinner
Books two weeks ahead.
Window opens Wed 29 July
Double Dragon — only if Saturday changes
doubledragonparis.com. Ground Control is the plan, so this is a fallback.
French As You Like It — optional
frenchasyoulikeit.com — group lesson for Jennie and the boys.
Maison Vérot — confirm only
Call +33 1 48 87 85 87 to check the Saint-Antoine shop is open Tue 18 Aug.
Eat & drink
Septime La Cave — 11e
The best natural wine bar in Paris. Small, walk-in, no reservations.
Daily 16:00–23:00
YARD — 11e
Natural wine with a real kitchen. Saturday's all-day service is the best option for a group.
Sat 13:00–00:00 · Sun 13:00–22:00 · Mon/Thu/Fri eve · closed Tue & Wed
Ground Control — 12e
Food stalls in an old freight depot, train carriages as kids' play areas and a games alley. The easiest place in Paris for a group with children. No reservation.
Wed–Sat 12:00–01:00 · Sun to 22:30 · closed Mon & Tue
Mischief — 3e Marais
Creative French counter dining — you watch the kitchen work. 25 rue des Gravilliers.
Tue–Sat dinner from 19:00
Oobatz — 11e
Sourdough pizza, 36-hour fermented dough. 4bis av. Jean Aicard.
Mon–Fri dinner only · closed weekends
Le Savarin — 9e
Creative French bistro in South Pigalle, strong on fish. Private room booked for Mon 17.
Mon dinner 19:30–21:30, single service
Le Café du Commerce — 15e
A 15e institution — three floors round an open atrium with a retractable roof. Lunch around €20.
Every day 11:30–23:00
Le Petit Cler — 7e
All-day brasserie on a pedestrian market street. 15 min from d'Orsay.
Every day 08:00–00:00
Recoin — 11e
Seasonal French bistro, 60 rue Saint-Sabin. Walk-in friendly.
Dinner nightly · lunch Fri–Sun
Kubri — 11e
Lebanese-Parisian mezze, group-friendly. The hispi cabbage is legendary.
Tue–Sat lunch & dinner
Le Servan — 11e
Double Dragon's more refined sister. Filipino-French.
Mon–Sat lunch & dinner
Double Dragon — 11e
Filipino-French sharing plates, lively and punchy.
Dinner Mon–Sat · lunch Fri–Sat
Au Passage — 11e
Small plates and natural wine. Walk-in friendly.
Tue–Sat 19:00–01:00
Aux Deux Amis — 11e
Zinc bar, natural wine, late. Best adults-only.
Tue–Sat from 12:30
Le Siffleur de Ballons — 12e
Natural wine bar on rue de Cîteaux. Nightcap or apéro.
Tue–Sat 18:00–01:00
Pierre Sang Oberkampf — 11e
€48 counter tasting, no menu, guess the ingredients. Adults-only.
Daily lunch & dinner
Nobisan — Marais
Japanese hand rolls, 4.9 stars. Walk-ins only.
Daily 12:30–16:00 & 19:00–22:30
Le Loir dans la Théière — Marais
Alice in Wonderland tearoom, famous meringue pies. No reservations — arrive by 12:30.
Daily 09:00–19:30
Le Parizot — 11e
One-man sandwich shop, arguably the best jambon beurre in Paris. Go early.
Mon–Sat 09:30–17:00
Folderol — 11e
Ice cream shop that doubles as a natural wine bar. Olive oil and black sugar are the flavours.
From 16:00 · closed Tue & Wed
Le Canard Sauvage — 10e
Wild game bistro, all-natural wine. Adults.
Tue–Sat dinner
Ambos — 6e
Tasting menu, 4.8 stars, open kitchen. The splurge fallback if Cypsèle stays shut.
Mon–Thu lunch & dinner · Fri dinner · closed weekends
Coffee & pastry
Early Bird — inside Marché Beauvau
Your literal front door. Melbourne-style roaster.
Tue–Sat split hours · Sun am · closed Mon
Klover — 6 rue Merlin, 11e
Scandi-Korean-Japanese roastery.
Mon/Tue/Fri/Sat/Sun · closed Wed & Thu
Ten Belles — Canal Saint-Martin
One of the originals of Paris specialty coffee.
Daily from 08:30
Motors Coffee — 1er
France's 2025 brewing champion.
Mon–Sat 08:00–18:00 · Sun from 10:00
Tapisserie — 11e
Bertrand Grébaut's pastry shop. Choux à la flouve, vanilla flan.
Daily from 08:30
Vandermeersch — 12e
Prize-winning kouglof, av. Daumesnil toward Vincennes.
Tue–Sat
Chapon — 69 rue du Bac
The chocolate mousse: five intensities, taste before you choose.
Daily 10:00–19:00
Maison Vérot — five branches
World-champion pâté en croûte. Saint-Antoine (4e) is closest; Galeries Lafayette Gourmet (9e) is open every day.
Saint-Antoine Tue–Sat 09:00–20:00
Shops & wandering
Rue de Bretagne / Charlot — Marais
The best window shopping in Paris, and open on Sundays when the rest of the city isn't. Café Charlot at no.38 as an anchor.
Viaduc des Arts — 12e
Artisan workshops under the old railway viaduct. 10 min from the apartment, far less touristy than the Marais.
Daily 10:00–19:00
Palais Royal galleries — 1er
Arcades of art, jewellery and vintage design, plus the Buren columns. Free.
Daily 08:00–22:30
Rue du Bac — 6e/7e
Deyrolle at 46, Chapon at 69, antique dealers and galleries all along.
Rue du Commerce — 15e
The 15e's high street, running off rue de la Croix Nivert. The nostalgia walk.
Balibaris — 117 rue Vieille du Temple
French menswear, clean cuts.
Mon–Sat 10:30–19:30 · Sun 11:00–19:00
Octobre Edition — 28 rue des Blancs Manteaux
Minimal French basics, men and women.
Tue–Sun 11:30–19:30 · closed Mon
AXS Design — Bastille
Curated vintage home goods.
Tue–Sat 11:00–19:00
Deyrolle — 46 rue du Bac
Legendary taxidermy and curiosity shop. No photos inside. Budget 45 min.
Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00
Crus et Découvertes — 7 rue Paul Bert
The natural wine run for Normandy. Ask for 2–3 cases with variety.
Open Mon · closed 14:00–16:00
Museums & sights
Sainte-Chapelle — 1er
Booked Fri 9:30. Timed entry, free for the boys.
Daily 09:00–19:00 · no entry 13:00–14:15 weekdays
Musée d'Orsay — 7e
The great Impressionist collection in a converted 1900 railway station. Free under 18. Booked Thu 13, 6:30pm — head straight to Level 5.
Tue–Sun 09:30–18:00 · Thu to 21:45 · closed Mon
Atelier des Lumières — 11e
Paintings projected floor-to-ceiling in an old iron foundry. Booked Thu 10am.
Daily 10:00–18:00 · Fri/Sat to 21:00
Musée des Arts et Métiers — 3e
Foucault pendulum and early aircraft in a former church. Free under 18.
Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00 · Fri late
Chasse et Nature — 3e
Taxidermy staged in period rooms, alongside Old Masters and contemporary art. Gloriously weird. Free under 18.
Tue–Sun 11:00–18:00 · Wed late
Carnavalet — 3e
History of Paris across two historic mansions. Completely free.
Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00
Cité des Sciences — 19e
Huge hands-on science museum, same site as the open-air cinema. Some films are French-only.
Tue–Sun 10:00–19:00 · closed Mon
Institut du Monde Arabe — 5e
Free rooftop on floor 9 — the best Notre-Dame view in Paris.
Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00
Musée Rodin — 7e
Garden-only €3, free for the boys. The Thinker and Gates of Hell are outdoors.
Tue–Sun 10:00–18:30 · closed Mon
Palais de Tokyo — 16e
Contemporary art — big, raw, experimental. One of the few open Monday. Off the itinerary now, but here if you want it.
Mon/Sat/Sun only 12:00–22:00
Bourse de Commerce — 1er
'Clair-obscur' through 31 Aug. Tadao Ando building.
Mon, Wed–Sun 11:00–19:00 · Fri late · closed Tue
Free, and good for the boys
Free for Wesley & Caleb
Arts et Métiers · Chasse et Nature · Carnavalet · Sainte-Chapelle · d'Orsay · IMA rooftop · Rodin garden (€3 adults) · all Parc Floral concerts · Paris Plages · Coulée Verte
They'll love
Pandore · L'Aventure Fantastique · Atelier des Lumières · Cité des Sciences · Arts et Métiers · Chasse et Nature · Deyrolle · Nobisan · Oobatz · boats on Lac Daumesnil · Ground Control's games alley · Square Saint-Lambert carousel
Cinéma en Plein Air — La Villette
Free open-air cinema through 16 Aug. Stand By Me on Fri 14, Cast Away on Sat 15, both 9pm. Not in the plan, but it's there.
Paris Plages
Through 30 Aug. The Quai de Bercy site is walking distance; Bassin de la Villette has canoeing and swimming basins.
For Jennie
Strong pescatarian options
Nobisan and Kubri are the standouts. Double Dragon, Le Servan, Mischief, Recoin, YARD and Le Loir dans la Théière all cater well. Le Savarin is strong on fish. Flag it when booking Le Moulin Fouret — one party there was served a seven-course vegetarian menu.
Phone numbers
Le Moulin Fouret Booked, Tue 18 · 12:30
+33 2 32 43 19 95
Le Savarin Private room, Mon 19:30
+33 1 42 81 11 00
Maison Vérot Saint-Antoine, 4e
+33 1 48 87 85 87
Fromagerie La Dégusterie Pont-l'Évêque · tastings
+33 2 31 65 54 10
L'Aventure Fantastique Booked Fri 14:30
+33 6 60 91 81 04
Le Siffleur de Ballons Walk-in fine
+33 1 40 21 86 44
Le Petit Cler Walk-in fine
+33 1 45 50 17 50
Deyrolle Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00
+33 1 42 22 30 07
Musée Rodin Tue–Sun
+33 1 44 18 61 10
French As You Like It Group lesson
+33 1 85 09 90 14
Getting around
Car pickup — Tue 18 Aug
Hertz at Gare de Lyon, 190 rue de Bercy, Level -1. 15 min walk from the apartment. Returning at CDG — check which terminal the drop-off is at before you set off from Normandy.
To Deauville
A13 west. Lunch at Le Moulin Fouret near Bernay (1h45 out), then Pont-l'Évêque, Beaumont-en-Auge and Carrefour Touques on the way in. Be on the A13 by 10:30.
Nearest metro
Ledru-Rollin (line 8) and Faidherbe-Chaligny (line 8) both a few minutes from Place d'Aligre. Gare de Lyon for lines 1 and 14 and RER A.
Line 8 does a lot of the work
Ledru-Rollin → Commerce for the 15e, and → République/Concorde for the Right Bank and d'Orsay. Monday and Thursday both run on it.
Après Paris

Normandy — the Deauville week

Unlike Paris, the Côte Fleurie in August is peak season, so almost everything is open. The risk here is crowds, not closures — go early.

Markets
Marché aux Poissons, Trouville — the best thing here
Bd Fernand Moureaux, across the bridge from Deauville. Buy oysters at the stalls and eat them standing there with a glass of white, harbour in front of you. Still a working market despite 3,300+ reviews. The default for any day with a gap in it.
Mon 10:00–19:00 · Tue–Sun 09:00–19:00
Marché de Deauville — covered halls
Place du Marché / rue Breney. Local producers inside the halls; the outdoor stalls are more generic. Go for the food, ignore the clothes.
Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00–13:30
Lisieux — ~35 min inland
One of the two authentic inland markets locals point you to.
Saturday morning
Saint-Pierre-en-Auge
Under 12th-century covered halls. Worth the drive for the building alone.
Monday morning
Cambremer — old-fashioned market
On the Route du Cidre, so it pairs with a cider-farm day.
Sunday mornings through summer
Cheese
La Fromagerie des Bains — 50 rue des Bains, Trouville
The best of them, 4.7 stars. Regulars single out the small-producer finds and the welcome.
Daily 10:00–13:00 & 15:30–19:00 · Sun to 18:00
Chez Madeleine — 13 rue Breney, Deauville
Right by the market hall. Cheese plus honey, jam and local dry goods — good for putting a board together.
Closed Wednesdays
MB Fromagerie — 62 rue Gambetta, Deauville
Convenient and open every day. One local's verdict: you'll do better buying from the farmers at the markets.
Daily 08:00–19:30
Graindorge dairy, Livarot
Inland in the Pays d'Auge. The visit is the point — watch Livarot and Pont-l'Évêque actually being made.
Pont-l'Évêque farmhouse producers
Martin and Spruytte, if you want the raw-milk version rather than the supermarket one.
Bakeries
Amicha — 118 rue Général de Gaulle, Trouville
The standout: 4.9 across 207 reviews. Reviewers reach for superlatives — best bakery in Deauville, best tarte au citron in Normandy.
Tue–Sat 07:00–19:00 · Sun 07:00–14:00 · closed Mon
Anne Pâtisserie — 12 rue Désiré le Hoc, Deauville
The daily croissant run. Good coffee, tables outside.
Every day 07:30–19:30
Myriam Guédrat — 13 rue Désiré le Hoc, Deauville
Proper pâtisserie, trained under Jean-François Foucher. For something to carry back to the house rather than eat on the street.
Closed Tue & Wed
The Route du Cidre
What it is
A signposted 40km loop through the Pays d'Auge, about 45 min inland. Around twenty cider farms carry the "Cru de Cambremer" sign, guaranteeing AOP Pays d'Auge origin. The loop links Beuvron-en-Auge, Cambremer, Bonnebosq, Victot-Pontfol and Beaufour-Druval.
Beuvron-en-Auge — the anchor, and the shopping
One of the officially designated prettiest villages in France. 17th- and 18th-century half-timbered houses round a small square lined with antique shops, galleries and boutiques selling cider, calvados and cheese. Allow an hour.
Ferme de la Vallée au Tanneur
A family farm doing cider, calvados and pommeau — plus Norman dairy cows in twelve hectares of orchard whose milk goes into unpasteurised Pays d'Auge cheeses. Cider and cheese in one stop.
Ferme Cidricole Desvoye — Beaufour-Druval
Smaller and quieter, down the narrow lanes east of the loop where it gets properly rural.
One rule
Skip the polished visitor-centre operations. The small family farms are the reason to go.